Crested Geckos or Leopard Geckos?

Some people have asked me recently about the differences between crested geckos and leopard geckos, and which I would recommend.
It's totally down to personal preference and opinion, which is why I decided it would be a good topic to discuss. I want to open people's minds a little bit about the differences between the two geckos as an animal and the care involved with each.
Personally, I think crested geckos are much easier reptiles to care for, as well as less expensive, far more beautiful and with their own individual and unique features! But hey... I'm probably biased ;-)

How do their appearances differ?

Crested Geckos

Crested geckos are all very different, yet all very similar! They share the same body, with soft scales that are velvet at touch. They have crests that line their backs from the base of their tail to the tips of their heads, and outline their eyes to form 'eyelashes'. This gives them their nickname of 'The Eyelash Gecko'.

The average crestie reaches about 8 inches in length (nose to tip), although some can be considerably smaller or larger. Some may even reach the length of 10 inches. Although this may sound pretty big, it's actually reasonably small for a gecko or lizard. The average crested gecko should weigh 40-45 grams (with tail).

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Although all crested geckos share these features, each gecko is unique in their own way. Crested geckos have 'morphs', which are different patterns and colours. There are more popular morphs such as the pinstripe, flame and harlequin. Popular colours include brown, orange, green, yellow and grey. You can sometimes come across crested geckos with rarer, more vibrant morphs and colours, such as the 'Moonglow' and extravagant reds! These geckos tend to be of a lot more value than the average crestie.

The colour of a crested gecko can change due to a stimulus. This is called 'firing up'. A stimulus such as an environmental change (heat, humidity, light intensity) or an internal change (stress levels) can cause the colours of a crested gecko to become darker and more vibrant.

A crested gecko can drop its tail, but it won't grow back.

Leopard Geckos

Leopard geckos tend to have a very similar appearance, in body and in colour/pattern. This makes a leopard gecko very easily identifiable, but it can be hard to distinguish one from another at times. It shouldn't be an issue if you really get to know your geckos.

Leopard geckos also reach 8-10 inches in length, although they are much bulkier and thicker than a crested gecko. Oppositely, crested geckos' bodies are thin, streamlined and delicate.

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An average leopard gecko is yellow of colour with large white and black spots (mostly black). There are, however, pattern and colour variations.

A leopard gecko has small bumps over their body. These give the impression of a rough texture, although, like a crested gecko, they are actually rather soft at touch. You can also see that a leopard gecko has a large, bulky tail. The tail is the leopard gecko's fat storage, and, similarly to a crested gecko's calcium sacs, should help indicate the health standards of your gecko. A large tail for example indicates a large amount of fat storage.

Some common morphs and colours are yellow, brown, white or leucistic (with no colour).

A leopard gecko can drop its tail, but it will grow back.

Housing and Environment

Crested Geckos

Crested geckos can be housed in very simple, neutral conditions, and survive perfectly well in an average room environment (temperature and humidity).

Crested geckos should be kept in 'tall' vivariums, as they will appreciate height rather than width. They spend the majority of their time climbing or otherwise vertical, and need the upward space to do so. A single crested gecko or crested gecko pair can be housed comfortably in a 12" by 12" by 18" vivarium. However, you may want to purchase in an 18" by 18" by 24" to provide more room, particularly if you have more than 2 crested geckos in one enclosure.

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Enclosures should be fitted with natural plants, vines and climbing equipment to keep your gecko active, happy and well-exercised. It should also contain plenty of hiding places, as a crested gecko will spend the majority of his day hiding.

Temperatures in the vivarium should range between 50-80F, although you should try to keep the vivarium at room temperature, approx 72F. Anything lower than 50F could be dangerous for your crestie, and anything higher than 80F could cause high levels of stress therefore impacting their health, e.g. eating habits. Temperature can be regulated with a simple Exo Terra dial thermometer on the wall of the vivarium. Your heat source can come from a heat mat or a bulb, although try not to put too much direct light onto your crestie.

Humidity should also be regulated with a hygrometer. You should mist the vivarium regularly (every evening) by spraying the enclosure heavily with a water bottle.

Leopard Geckos

One small adult leopard gecko can be comfortably housed in a 16 by 11 inch box / vivarium. Approx. 3 adults can be housed in a 36 by 18 inch vivarium, with 18 inch in height for installed lighting. Leopard geckos, unlike cresties, don't require much height. They spend all of their time on the ground and lack the lamellae acquired by rested geckos to climb smooth surfaces (or even rough ones!). 

Leopard geckos should also have places to hide on the floor of the vivarium/box. Your gecko could become stressed, therefore leading to a deterioration of health, if they do not have sufficient hiding places.

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Leopard gecko enclosures should contain a 'moist box'. They tend to sleep here during the day, as moist and humid enclosures make a comfortable environment for a leo. These will be particularly important during shedding to help remove the shed from the outside of the body.

Leopard geckos, like all reptiles, are cold blooded. This means that they require heat to thermoregulate. Leos require a lot more heat than cresties. A heat mat should cover between a third to half the floor of a leo's enclosure. You should monitor the temperature inside the enclosure with a thermometer. It should average around 84-88F.

They also require lighting. This should be artificial lighting or UV light. A leopard gecko should be able to know the difference between day and night, and should experience 14 hours of light and 10 hours of darkness in the summer. In the winter months, they should experience 12 hours of light with 12 hours of darkness. Some lights come with timers that will automatically switch on and off the lights in the enclosure for you.

Leopard geckos are nocturnal, as are most geckos, and so have a disliking of bright light. You should expose your leos to black heat lamps, red lamps or UV lamps. These can also provide heat to the vivarium. They should have various heat and light gradients throughout the vivarium so they can escape light intensities and temperatures.

A leopard gecko's enclosure should be monitored for humidity. A humidity that is too high can leave a leo open to infections. The ideal humidity in a leopard gecko's enclosure should be 40% or lower.

I hope this post clarifies the basic differences between leopard and crested geckos!

It's all about personal preference and how much space you have. It's also about your willingness to pay money for the equipment required (leopard geckos do tend to be more expensive).

I hope you enjoyed the post!

Elly. x